Layers of dusky pinks and pale oranges hung above the horizon, perfectly framing the blazing red sun as it made a last valiant effort to emerge from behind the puffy grey clouds. Swifts darted about, chasing insects in the fading evening light, and the sound of contented munching drifted across the hillside from our neighbours – the resident sheep. Down on the reservoir, a gaggle of geese settled their final squabbles of the day whilst a pair of buzzards circled overhead, calling to each other as they hunted for their supper. Full of our own dinner, we were enjoying one of nature’s finest shows, from the comfort of our private hot tub at Kekaroka Lodge.
We’d retreated to the wilds of rural north Cumbria for a few indulgent days of peace and relaxation at Kekaroka Lodge. It doesn’t get better than bubbles, wine, and nature, all in the same moment. Deliciously toasty in the tub, we topped up our glasses, and waited to see what night would bring. As the sun finally gave way to the inky mystery of dusk, it wasn’t long before a couple of bats were doing loop-the-loops right in front of our deck.
The distant lights of Carlisle were twinkling on the horizon, but city life felt a million miles away. For the grand finale of our enchanted evening, a barn owl obligingly appeared, swooping down into the valley to pick up a tasty snack. Then, just as we were leaving our wet footprints behind and retreating into the cabin, a shooting star tumbled from the sky, adding a little extra magic to our evening.
A 5* Luxury Lodge in Cumbria
Kekaroka Lodge expertly blends nature with unashamed luxury. This 5* self-catering cabin is perfect for a romantic weekend away, with all the trimmings you need for a high-end rural holiday. We loved the rich blue and white colour theme that ran throughout the lodge, as well as the super-soft bed and well-equipped kitchen. For cosy nights in, there’s a log fire in the living area, and we were gutted that the unexpected sizzling temperatures of early Autumn meant we didn’t end up trying it out. Typical Brits, always complaining about the weather!
There were fluffy robes and slippers too, and lots of lovely local treats like coffee from Carlisle and Kendal, toiletries by Pure Lakes, and fresh spring water from right here on the farm! I was really touched that lovely owner Andrea (who lives in the cabin next door) left us some delicious vegan welcome treats, after finding out that madam here is dairy intolerant and wouldn’t be able to enjoy the chocolate brownies that are usually provided. Such a nice thought!
There’s a stylish free-standing bath in the bedroom for indulgent soaks, as well as a shower in the bijou bathroom. For a relatively small space, this lovely lodge really does have everything you need, and more!
What really makes this place so special though is the views. It’s rare to be able to see a distant horizon in Cumbria (normally the mountains get in the way!), so having the rolling countryside spread out before us, and the glistening waters of Castle Carrock Reservoir down in the valley below, was quite a treat. The wraparound deck at Kekaroka Lodge was where we spent most of out time, lazing about on the garden seats or soaking in the hot tub, watching for wildlife and relishing the tranquillity of nature.
So, where is Kekaroka Lodge?
Kekaroka Lodge is perfectly located in north Cumbria, a few miles east of Carlisle, on the edge of the North Pennines. The accommodation is tucked away on Tottergill Farm, just a short walk from the charming village of Castle Carrock. It’s far from the tourist bustle, but within easy reach of the Lake District, Northumberland and even the Scottish Borders if you fancy a day out.
Over the last few years, we’ve noticed that Cumbria, and especially the Lake District National Park, has become super busy in the tourist season. Roads can’t cope with the traffic volume, parking is often a nightmare unless you get up early, and many of the popular sights are just too crowded to be enjoyable. Which is why Kekaroka Lodge was such a find! Honestly, we think this is the way forward when visiting the region – staying in the lesser-known but equally beautiful rural wilds of Cumbria, whilst having easy access to heaps of local attractions should you want to venture out.
North Cumbria is also known for its dark skies, and the deck at Kekaroka Lodge was the perfect place for a spot of stargazing. There’s so little light pollution up here that the stars appeared to be more numerous, and much brighter than what we’re used to. We swear we saw constellations that we’d never noticed before, as well as Venus in all her sparkling glory. There’s even a telescope at the lodge, for all the avid astronomers out there.
Out and about at Kekaroka Lodge
One of the joys of staying at Kekaroka Lodge is that you can head out for walks right from the door without needing to jump in the car. We’d planned on doing a few day trips during our visit, but as the area was so beautiful, we ended up staying local most of the time instead.
Our favourite jaunt was hiking up the fellside behind the farm, on barely-there paths that meandered through the fading heather. A great suggestion from Andrea, who knows the local area really well and is full of ideas and tips on things to do. We didn’t see a single other person whilst we were out, so it felt remote, wild, and exclusive. The views out across the north of the county were fabulous, and up here you have a great vantage point for seeing Castle Carrock Reservoir.
We followed the trail along the low fellside, skirting around the reservoir and passing through Castle Carrock village before looping back to Kekaroka Lodge. It was a perfect circular stroll, with superb views and plenty of quiet countryside to enjoy.
If you want to explore a bit further afield, places like Hadrian’s Wall, Lanercost Priory, and Birdoswold Roman Fort are just up the road, and of course the Pennines and the Lake District are on the doorstep too. Being local to Cumbria ourselves, we’ve already seen most of the major sights, so opted for a few lesser-known spots instead.
Ashgill Force was our first stop. This stunning waterfall is just outside Alston in the North Pennines, accessed by a lovely riverside walk from the village of Garrigill. It’s a beautiful spot, and very peaceful – we hardly saw anyone during our visit. But the best bit? You can walk behind the waterfall! Just remember to bring your hiking boots as the trail is a bit muddy.
Next up on our magical mystery tour was the imposing Wetheral Priory Gatehouse which was once part of a Benedictine monastery. It was later used as a fortified tower house for protection during the infamous border raids. It’s free to enter, but you’ll need to park down in Wetheral village and walk up to the site (which just takes a few minutes).
We also popped down to Kirkoswold Castle, a crumbling ruin dating back to the 13th century, and hidden away on some farmland near Kirkoswold village. The castle was built in the distinctive pink Penrith sandstone, and only a single tower remains today. It’s worth a visit if you’re into history and atmospheric ruins, but take your wellies as the track can be very muddy, and there are a lot of nettles to contend with in the summer!
Eating out at Kekaroka Lodge
Despite the kitchen being one of the best we’ve come across on our self-catering travels, we didn’t do much cooking. We were on holiday after all! Andrea recommended the local pub, which is within walking distance, so we decided to give it a try.
Now, we don’t usually gush about pubs, and we’re certainly not foodies. But the Duke of Cumberland in Castle Carrock has got it just right. The food was superb (and plentiful!), the atmosphere was stylish yet unpretentious, and the staff were all really friendly and welcoming. It’s not often you find local Cumbrian pubs that combine those three essentials quite so expertly. Some of the best curry and steak pie we’ve eaten in a long time!
Our verdict
We don’t often go on holiday in Cumbria, since we live here and do a lot of day trips in our local area. Yet staying at Kekaroka Lodge made us see the county in a new, and frankly quite dazzling, light. It also forced us to unwind, relax and slow down, not things that we tend to do on our home turf.
Kekaroka is the ideal spot for a bit of escapism if you want to get away from the daily grind, and we loved that it felt super remote yet had heaps of things to do just a short distance away. The lodge itself is both gorgeous and comfortable, and the perfect place to retreat to after a day of exploring.
We rarely return from a trip feeling as rejuvenated as we did after our weekend at Kekaroka Lodge, and are so happy to have discovered a secret corner of Cumbria far from the crowds of the national park. To sum it up: Kekaroka rocks!!
Thanks to the lovely Andrea for hosting our stay at Kekaroka Lodge. As always, words and opinions remain our own, and we never accept a hosted stay if we wouldn’t have been happy to pay for the experience ourselves.
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